Jennifer Karchmer || Independent. Journalist.
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Women Journalists on the Frontlines

7/12/2017

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Here is latest episode of The jPod -- interviews and conversations with a journalist. Today, I talk about the work of international female journalists and discrimination in the newsroom. My guest is Elle Toussi, an American journalist based in LA who started the nonprofit "In One Minute" as part of her platform for multimedia storytelling.

Click here for the podcast: www.jenniferkarchmer.com/podcasts.html#ElleToussi

Pay particular attention (go to 14:00) to the discussion of the lack of female trainers in the hostile environment training field. Can men effectively train women for dangerous assignments? Should more women be part of the teams preparing reporters for conflict reporting? 

Join the conversation via these hashtags and links and comment on this blog below:
#WomenMatter 
#WomenInJournalism
#PressFreedomMatters
Elle Toussi @ElleToussi 
SPJ @spj_Tweets
SPJ International Community @SPJ_IJC 

Jennifer Karchmer @journalist_jk

For Further Reading:
"Report: Violence against women journalists," by Annabelle Sreberny
“Violence and Harassment against Women in the News Media: A Global Picture"
“International News Safety Institute, Survey: violence against women journalists”
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Authors: Boost your confidence and book sales through self-assured public speaking

6/1/2017

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PictureJennifer served as Book Manager for A.C. Fuller's "The Anonymous Source." Seen here with the author at Village Books in Bellingham, WA.
Years ago, while living in New York City, I would spend a Friday night at the Barnes & Noble at 14th Street-Union Square. First, I would grab a handful of books I had on my reading wish list and plunk down in a comfy chair. Unfortunately, my pocketbook at the time allowed me to purchase only one book. Before departing, I would get a coffee at the café and go to the metal folding chairs set up in the reading gallery to listen to an author talk about his or her latest book.

​When I wanted to support a small, independent bookstore, I would head over to BookCourt in Brooklyn and do the same.More recently, while living in the Pacific Northwest, I listen to authors of fiction, memoir, non-fiction, humor, and all genres by attending writing conferences like the annual Write on the Sound held in Edmonds, Wash. When I want to hear an author do a reading from his or her book, I go to Village Books, an independent bookseller in Bellingham, Wash.

The reality is that not all authors are good at speaking, self-promotion or selling. That’s OK. Writers are good at writing.
Sometimes the speaker is well prepared, confident and engaging, which is enjoyable for the audience. We get valuable information on how to write our memoir or novel. We laugh at interesting stories and leave with a good impression of the author’s work (and a purchased copy of the book). Other times, the author is nervous or uncomfortable or just doesn’t know how to make genuine, or subtle, pitches to buy the book.

The reality is that not all authors are good at speaking, self-promotion or selling. That’s OK. Writers are good at writing.

Therefore, if you are an author approaching an upcoming book signing, writing workshop or lecture and want to boost your confidence, and more importantly your book sales, here are a few tips:

1) Remember to stay hydrated. Try tea or tepid water. Ice water tends to alarm the vocal cords, whereas a warm drink is more soothing and calming.

2) Pass around one copy of the book during the talk. If they’ve come to hear you, chances are they are old-school book lovers and will enjoy touching the cover, rubbing the book spine and holding it as if it were theirs. Make them envision it on their bookshelf. Also, diverting attention to the book takes the focus off of you momentarily to take a deep breath and relax.

3) Assume everyone will purchase a copy. Use language like “readers like you,” “when you read the book…” (Similar to job interview advice.)

4) Make reference to page numbers and turning points. For example, “By chapter 3, Clarissa was becoming stronger and looking at life in a new way.” Or, “On page 67, she says …” Your audience will begin to connect with plot and writing technique and will want to get to that exact spot to see for herself. Also, those who brought a pre-purchased copy for signing can follow along.

​5) Bring something new to each engagement. Your audience will appreciate when you say, “I haven’t mentioned this before during a talk…” Be genuine and your readers will connect with you, and then your writing.
This blog post was originally published on Medium: https://medium.com/@journalist_jk/authors-public-speaking-boost-your-confidence-and-book-sales-55f7539bfc05
Bonus info: 
While this video (below) is geared toward public speaking, I'd argue it provides an excellent structure for all storytelling. 
​
Authors and writers take heed... watch this short explanation (8 mins) of how to succeed at public speaking and pay particular attention to the parts about giving your audience a reason to care (5:32) and building metaphors (6:45):
https://www.ted.com/talks/chris_anderson_teds_secret_to_great_public_speaking#t-39948
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Slow Writing: Why I Write At A Snail’s Pace

5/1/2017

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This is an excerpt from Jennifer’s upcoming book,“Take (Your) Time To Write: The Path to Peaceful Writing,” based on the concept of slow writing. 

I’ve always been a slow writer. In the 1990s, at my first job as a reporter, I would take hours to finish a 500-word column that should have taken an hour or two after sifting through my notes. I would return from a school board meeting or a run-of-the-mill press conference and toil over the lede (first sentence of a news story) and every sentence. I would rewrite and rewrite until everything was just right. Of course, accuracy is critical in journalism, so I checked, rechecked, and made my quotes perfect. Still, my editor pulled me aside one day, and while assuring me I was doing a good job, she said I needed to produce more quickly. They were paying me by the hour ($5) and wouldn’t be able to afford me if I kept up this tortoise pace.

​Thankfully, I learned to speed it up. After putting in more than a decade in busy newsrooms, I can say I have never been fired for missing a deadline. (Admittedly, as I work on this post, I see out of the corner of my eye on the TV, three episodes of Seinfeld have passed in addition to at least half of “Dirty Dancing” so we’re moving in on three hours and I’m only halfway finished.)

Several years ago, I made the transition from a “Just the facts, ma’am” reporter to a personal essay freelance writer. Today, I make my own deadlines – a dream come true for a writer, but with the autonomy comes discipline. So I’ve turned to other writers for guidance.

Frightfully, at a cocktail party, I overhear one writer say she jumps out of bed at the crack of dawn to get her butt in the chair before the family begins to stir. Similarly startling was the time a fellow scribe tell me he neurotically crosses off “Wrote 1,500 words!” on his daily To Do list. Getting up before the roosters? Hitting a daily self-imposed word count? ​Is this discipline or competition?

Realizing these conventions are not for me, I try to build my confidence, and my writing practice, around a slower, more relaxed pace that seems more in tune with my molasses gait. I admire you early risers, I really do. But it’s just not my style, so why force it? Writing is not only a career but an art, a passion–one that inches along to the tune of the muse whom I invoke when the sun and moon align.

Well, it’s actually not that magical but I put a lot of stock in how I am feeling. I am a productive writer, but these laments make me feel stressed out and depleted. Am I really a writer if I don’t adhere to these routines? I had left the busy newsroom grind and didn’t want to replace it with tortuous rules that seemed to leave me with a wet blanket of guilt draped over my shoulders.​

Getting up before the roosters? Hitting a daily self-imposed word count? ​Is this discipline or competition?
Along the way, I have adopted some precepts that seem to keep my writing in tune with my natural (slower) stride:
  1. Write when you feel like it. If I go a day or two without writing, I don’t beat myself up. I trust my body to know when I need a respite. Often, I will have a marathon writing session later in the week so I consider the earlier rest period a necessary recharge.
  2. Writing is writing. Period. Some days I'm bummed out that I haven’t written a lick on an essay I’m been mulling around. Then, when I reflect on the day, I see 27 emails in my Sent folder. Writing is writing, whether it is an email to client, a pitch to an agent, a handwritten sick note for your kid, or a FB post asking for travel advice. I consider all of these ways in which I am exercising my writing muscle (I actually love writing emails).
  3. Do a 7-day reset. Take off an entire week from your writing schedule and habits and allow yourself to do whatever feels right. Maybe you write one day and then not come back to a manuscript for two or three days. If it feels right to get up at the crack of dawn and put in some butt time, then go for it. Or perhaps writing feels really good at 3 pm with a cup of coffee as the afternoon light reflects off the trees. Give yourself a full week to see what develops for you and use that as a baseline for your writing habit. This is your “natural” schedule so use it to your advantage to be productive.

​Not only do I hold the dubious distinction of being a slow writer, I am also a slow reader. I take months to finish a novel (although I did finish “Fifty Shades of Grey” in three days…shhh). So I try to mix up my pleasure reading between fiction and a nonfiction magazines so I am getting a regular dose of different genres including some longform or “slow” writing.

​Here are some resources and examples I recommend.
  • Delayed Gratification magazine: http://www.slow-journalism.com/
  • Longform magazine: https://longform.org/
  • Excellent storytelling by Matt Wolfe: “The Last Unknown Man”
  • Mac McClelland, former Mother Jones writer
Jennifer Karchmer is a creative writer, book reviewer, and editor, based in Bellingham, WA and Brooklyn, NY. When she’s not writing first-personal essay, she is a volunteer correspondent for Reporters Without Borders defending and protecting freedom of the press and freedom of speech around the world. Find her latest work here: http://www.jenniferkarchmer.com/essays.html

This post ​originally published on Dec. 19, 2016 on Red Wheelbarrow Writers website: http://www.redwheelbarrowwriters.com/blog/slow-writing-why-i-write-at-a-snails-pace/ 
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​Would-Be Journalists: Throw Your Hat in the Ring

4/11/2017

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by Jennifer Karchmer
 
Gone are the days when you would open the classifieds of The New York Times and circle all of the news jobs you could find in the Employment section. In the mid-1990s, as I pounded the payment in the Big Apple, the stock market was flying and many of the news gigs were on Wall Street. I finally made my way to Prudential Securities as an editor, then the Bond Buyer as a municipal bond reporter and finally to CNN Money as a personal finance writer. Times were good for reporters and many other professions.
 
Today, it’s no secret the downsizing sword has slashed newsrooms — to domestic and international bureaus alike. Many of my news brethren have jumped ship, turning in their cub reporter hat for the PR flak jacket. Others have changed careers altogether. Unfortunately, parents are advising their college-bound teenagers with: “There is no money in news,” “Don’t choose journalism as your major,” “The pay is bad.” Like a broken record, this gripe about our profession has been spinning for 10 or 15 years.

But the tide is turning. Due (or thanks) to the hostile environment created by today’s White House toward the press corps, news agencies seem to be stepping up and, I believe, it is the best time to launch your journalism career and throw your hat in the ring. Amid the esoteric headlines screaming “alternative facts” and the oxymoronic “fake news,” today’s reporters are serving as the Trump Administration’s punching bag, and in some cases, they themselves are feeding the frenzy.

A new generation needs to pick up the reins and continue the legacy of journalism, the tenets that the profession sits on: questioning authority, holding government and those in power accountable and asking the hard questions. We need you now more than ever. Here’s some humble advice:
 
Find the jobs. If you’re a recent college grad boasting a journalism degree yet whining there are no jobs like your counterparts with humanities and social sciences degrees, then you’re in the wrong profession. A true reporter is out there digging, mining, pawing and pushing until the jobs surface. But you don’t even have to get your hands dirty these days. Hundreds (yes hundreds) of online portals list jobs.

Just last month, on March 29, I did a search on the website for The Wall Street Journal (a Dow Jones company, which is owned by NewsCorp), and 21 media jobs appeared, including copyeditor, reporter, photographer and producer. And those are positions just in New York City; WSJ has bureaus around the country. If you can deal with working for Rupert Murdoch, there’s a place for you to consider.

How about ProPublica, the independent news organization that does investigative pieces? They too are hiring: Web Producer, Engagement Reporter, Senior Editor, Data Reporter. Don’t forget about the obvious social media sites like LinkedIn, where I engage with companies directly, find recruiting managers and see job listings all the time for reporting and writing. We all know Facebook is great for posting birthday wishes for your cat and pictures of your favorite dessert, but I’m finding freelance, part-time and remote reporting jobs in FB groups dedicated solely to journalism. The best part about FB is that you can see who is posting the listing and you can send your resume directly to them, or request more information about qualifications and pay and get your foot in the door through networking.
 
Question Authority and Don’t Back Down. “If journalism is good, it is controversial, by its nature.” So said WikiLeaks’ Julian Assange in the 2013 documentary, “We Steal Secrets: The Story of WikiLeaks.” Whether or not you’re a fan of Assange (he has lots of detractors), you’ve got to admit that he hits the nail on the head when it comes to role of journalism in our society. Who are we who call ourselves journalists if not the very people who ask the hard questions and challenge authority?

​The Trump administration is playing offense with the media, using a Twitter feed and overly aggressive tactics to prey upon and mock the people in charge of taking him to task. Being hard-nosed comes with being a journalist, and it’s nothing to apologize for. Get your journalism degree and wave it proudly (even if you are making only $10 an hour).

Join a news organization. The Society of Professional Journalists, the International Society of Weekly Newspaper Editors, Reporters Without Borders, the Committee to Protect Journalists, the International Women’s Media Foundation, the Reporters Committee for Freedom of the Press – these are just a handful of the scores of journalism and media organizations that exist worldwide. They all do good work toward defending press freedom and it may be out of your pocketbook or schedule to join all of them. Many offer student discounts to join so if you’re even a few year’s out of college, now is a great time. Take one afternoon in front of your computer with a cup of coffee, and peruse each of these worthy organization’s websites and decide to support at least one this year.
 
Sure journalism is tough in terms of the workload, the pressure, the hours and schedule, but if you’re a true reporter and things like ledes, active voice and writing headlines are in your blood, then you know that the profession is right for you. Don’t let your parents, guidance counselor, friends studying business or anyone else downplay your passion. Now is not only a great time to choose the profession, it’s necessary.
 
“It is the role of good journalism to take on powerful abuses, and when powerful abuses are taken on, there is always a bad reaction.” – Julian Assange of WikiLeaks
 
An edited version of this piece was published in “Grassroots Editor: A Journal for Newspeople,” put out by the International Society of Weekly Newspaper Editors (ISWNE), vol. 58, no. 1. This essay was one of a dozen op-eds written by ISWNE members for the special Spring 2017 edition: “The tension between the president and the press: Are journalists affected?” Jennifer is a member of ISWNE.

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Family Friendly Must-Sees in Bellingham, WA

2/8/2017

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It's the dead of winter and you see the white stuff on your lawn, but thoughts of summer are entering your psyche I'm sure, as you start to plan your warm weather itinerary.

You're ready to pile the kids (Rover too) into the SUV and hit the road? How about a day trip to Bellingham, Washington? Just 90 miles north of Seattle, Bellingham has culture, outdoor scenery and shopping -- a great destination for the entire family.

Don’t forget the SPF
First stop is Lake Padden, a favorite for locals and visitors alike. Bring your bathing suit to take a dip in the lake then ride bikes on the relatively flat trail that encircles Padden. Even the youngest in the family will enjoy walking the easy 2.6-mile smooth gravel loop. Sorry, no motorized vehicles are allowed in the lake but that’s OK, because you can float around in a kayak or on paddleboard. Rover can go off-leash in the designated dog area.

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School’s Out
Sure it’s a day trip but why not get the kids using their thinking caps? Swing on over to Mindport, an interactive museum with exhibits in science and woodworking. The best part here is that you can touch everything, so don’t worry about breaking anything. You will see fine art exhibits and a full library too. Be sure not to miss the Rythmo display.

Good Eats
By now you’re probably hungry, so walk just a few blocks to the Farmer’s Market at Depot Square. Here, you will see organic produce from local farms and everyone can find something for their palette with food vendors selling Indian, Thai, Mexican, crepes and all kinds of cuisine. You will surely have fun conversation as patrons share picnic tables lined along the edge of the market, so sit down with the entire family and meet some new folks. Next, stroll the market for gift ideas (or for yourself!) in jewelry, pottery and clothing all produced by local artists. 

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End of the Day
After your bellies are full, why not head to Boulevard Park in Fairhaven where you can watch the sailboats floating on the bay amid a beautiful sunset? There’s plenty of room to spread out, toss a Frisbee and play catch with the pooch. The kids can even join a pickup game of volleyball. Bring a blanket so you can relax and listen to live music in the band shell. Check local listings for dates and times.

Jennifer Karchmer is a freelance writer based in Bellingham, Wash.


Sources:
http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/lake-padden-park
http://www.mindport.org/
http://www.bellinghamfarmers.org/
https://www.cob.org/services/recreation/parks-trails/Pages/boulevard-park.aspx

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Worried About Your Freedom of Speech?

1/19/2017

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PictureSPJs #PressThePrez campaign
Letter to friends and colleagues, written on the eve of the US Presidential inauguration:

During the past few weeks, since the reality of the new President has emerged, I have a very good friend who has been asking, "What can I do?” She is not only not in agreement with the President-Elect, but also finds him reprehensible due to his disrespectful behavior and comments. She is not one to sit around and expect things to change on their own. Well-spoken, knowledgeable, and intelligent, she is an activist and motivator. 

On this moment ahead of the Presidential Inauguration, I know she is not alone. A new president will be sworn in just a few hours from now, and some (many?) of us are scared about our freedom of speech, among other rights.

Today, I share actionable items, something that she, and you, can DO with your pocketbook of course, but more importantly, with your intelligent conversation with friends, your FB and social media feeds, and with your principles. I'm talking about following and reading up on the SPJ, the Society of Professional Journalists. 

SPJ is a nonprofit more than 100 years old that works every day to protect and safeguard our First Amendment rights. Although "journalist" is part of the name, the organization is comprised of journalists and non-journalists alike, individuals from all professions who believe that a strong, objective free press is the cornerstone of democracy. Unfortunately, we are faced with an incoming administration that may crush those rights and freedoms.

To show you the kind of work SPJ does, just this week, SPJ joined with more than 60 journalism organizations (yes, there are that many journalism organizations and more around the world) to request a meeting with PE Trump and VPE to discuss journalists' access to government. 

This is the kind of stuff SPJ does on a regular basis, pressuring the administration on behalf of the public. It has HQ in Indianapolis and chapters throughout the US. 

As a member of the Seattle SPJ chapter since 2009, I volunteer with the SPJ FOI (Freedom of Information) committee trying to preserve our right to access public records. Also, as a member of the SPJ International community, I work to improve the safety of journalists working in dangerous regions around the world.

So, click here for SPJs special campaign about joining.

But don't let this come across as a New Year's plea from yet another worthy non-profit desiring a much- needed donation. Really, it’s not so much about the money (although I’m sure they would love your donation), but getting yourself informed.

Read up on what the SPJ does on behalf of the public. Here's the press release with the information about the SPJ letter to PE Trump I've mentioned above.

And for those of you also saying, "What can I do?" these are ways to join in the protection of the First Amendment:
  1. Look up #PressThePrez on social media.
  2. Join SPJ today. 
  3. Make a donation to SPJ, the biggest journalism organization in the United States.
  4. Write to me, a freedom of the press advocate who covers free speech and First Amendment issues, and tell me how I can help strengthen your right to free speech. 

Lastly, I will share with you that since 2010 I have traveled internationally talking with reporters in Johannesburg and Pretoria (South Africa), Reykjavik (Iceland), Paris (France) and in other parts of the world, and time and again, they all have cited the United States as the bastion of press freedom. 

They say, “Jennifer​,​ you have the Washington Post, the New York Times, Watergate, Woodward & Bernstein.” They know the names and the institutions; in some cases, they have earned a journalism degree at the very competitive Columbia University (NY) studying our media. They look to the US as a role model in this regard.

If we cannot secure, preserve, and strengthen our free speech freedoms, especially during a time of threat, then how can reporters and the public in repressed regimes around the world have hope of democracy and their freedom of expression?

RESOURCES
Twitter: @spj_tweets
#PressThePrez 
FB: SPJ 

Thank you,
Jennifer Karchmer
Independent Journalist & Freedom of the Press Advocate
www.jenniferkarchmer.com


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Self-Editing When Your English Major Roommate Is Not Around

12/15/2016

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First edition of The Elements of Style, the classic writer's compendium.
Perhaps you were the math geek whizzing through your trig homework. But when it came to English class and object pronouns, subject-verb agreement, and the correct spelling of cemetery (all “e”s), you failed miserably.

​Enter your college roommate who walked around reciting the auxiliary verbs while toting a marked-up copy of Strunk & White (writing geeks know this). Every term paper and research report had you calling her for last-minute proofreading and checking whether you were using who or whom correctly.

Now though, you’re a big shot, running a business. You’ve got an hour to finish that sales pitch for a lucrative client and the English major ain’t around.
Here are some tips to help you clean up your memo, research paper, or company-wide email when mutual aid isn’t in sight:

  • Run the darn spellcheck. We all know relying on spellcheck alone is not a good idea because it cannot discern errors of context, like weather/whether. But, it does serve a purpose in identifying some minor mistakes that, if left unattended, can make your paper look like crap. The key is to pay attention. Spellcheck points out extra spaces and punctuation inconsistencies, like a period instead of a comma. These errors will make your paper look sloppy and kill your credibility, so consider spellcheck your baseline cleaner-upper.

  • First things first. Be sure to reread, proofread, and read out loud your very first line, headline, and opening paragraph. Sure, the entire project is important, but a typo or misprint in the beginning will turn off your client right away. It’s possible (and probable) your reader will only skim the paper or memo, but an error on the first page will send the job down the drain, so spend a little extra time checking the introduction.

  • Print (aka, kill the trees). If you have access to a printer, go ahead and make a hard copy. Studies show that errors are more likely to be caught when they are on the printed page rather than on screen. (This is my personal experience too.)

  • Larger Than Life. Of course, if you don’t have time to get to Zippy’s Corner Printshop (or you want to save the trees), you will do your proofing on your monitor. Use the Magnify function (sometimes labeled Zoom or View) to bump up what you see on the screen to about 150% or larger, depending on your screen size. I go to 165% on my 13” MacBook Pro laptop. At this perspective, the bigger text allows you to notice inconsistencies and promptly correct them.

Of course. hiring a proofreader is the most reasonable and practical answer here as a professional would lend credibility to your work and save you lots of headache. You hire a hairdresser to pretty up your coif and go to the mechanic to repair your car; why not seek out a grammar and spelling expert when it comes to presenting yourself on paper?

Hopefully, in the end, a typo or two won’t make or break the sale or ruin your chance to impress the boss. But if you get her name wrong on the cover, or misspell a word like “
public” (like this school in Indiana did in a huge billboard), it could be disastrous to your career, and garner lots of laughs at your expense.
Jennifer Karchmer is Editor in Chief of Over The Shoulder Editorial,
where she specializes in proofreading business documents, client memos, sales pitches, emails, and annual reports. Read her column on avoiding typos and comment below with your grammar and writing questions.
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Moroccan food

10/4/2016

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It's so funny when people ask me about "the food." I know it's an important part of any culture but I'm so not a foodie as you all know.

Plus...You won't believe my first week here how many times I had pizza! And crepes and French pastries! It wasn't until yesterday, Friday afternoon, that I was finally treated to an authentic Moroccan meal.

Apparently people take off from work on a Friday at like 3p to have coucscous with the family. The couscous takes hours to cook and it's simmering w a bunch of vegetables so it has to be started early in the day.

So we five new American teachers ate at Steve's house. He's the director of the school-American from Boston married to a Moroccan woman. They met at Boston Uni and now have three little kids. Nice family.

So they bring out this HUGE clay pot filled with couscous and slices of cabbage, carrots, garbanzo beans sprinkled on top and pieces of cooked pumpkin (see pic above). It's placed in the center of the table and everyone has a big soup spoon and the protocol is to eat only from the section right in front of you. You don't have a separate plate; you're just all eating from the clay pot so it's ok to double dip (Seinfeld...). But imagine a triangular section with imaginary lines (which actually could be denoted with a carrot stick) that's yours, so you don't go and pick from the other side.

When the meal is being prepared, the person makes sure the vegetables etc are evenly distributed for this reason. I believe there is often meat, but Steve and his wife are both vegetarians.

It's delicious and even this simple dish with just a few ingredients filled me up. Then you take a nap... lol

Tonight, we had a teacher training at the center with like 20 colleagues and guess what? They brought in a bunch of pizzas in boxes like they were from a place like Dominos. They go nuts here for pizza 🍕

All of the restaurants by the beach lining the parc are Italian or with Italian dishes. In fact, Steve's wife, Medeha, said you will get the best Moroccan meals at a home not in the restaurants bc couscous and authentic Moroccan fare takes hours to cook and prepare and restaurants are looking to move patrons in and out. I'm sure there are some top-notch places around especially in bigger cities like Rabat and Casa, but just walking into a little place isn't going to be the best Moroccan meal ever apparently.
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Food is relatively inexpensive. The above groceries in total cost 43 dirhams which equals about $4.40. You can see this includes fresh fruit, vegetables, pastries and milk.
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For the most part, you can find the same products albeit for much lower price than in the States.
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My first breakfast at a Moroccan cafe. Omelette with cheese, tomatoe/greens garnish, olives with olive oil, fresh orange juice, soup, cafe au lait, bread.
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Morocco in Days

9/27/2016

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*Words in italics = Arabic
Morocco-Le premièr jour!
Arrived in Casa. Line for immigration was about an hour. Kind of melange, not really a line. Two men got in a heated yelling match about cutting. I wasn't afraid or threatened but it got intense. He was yelling profanities in English and then other people chastised him for not respecting the older man. I thought I heard a woman say, "He's American" possibly because the guy was speaking in English but I don't think he was American because of his accent.

Walked through customs no prob. A little skrewy locating the right baggage carousel for my flight but my bag was there no prob and I saw Dave, a fellow American, right away. Mostafa is very nice. He speaks no English so he and I talked in the car the entire way from Casa in French which was really fun.

I saw lots of squalor and poverty what I would consider run-down buildings but wondered hmmm as you arrive from JFK or LGA or drive through Queens don't you see the same thing with graffiti or run down buildings or garbage? Very different ride from Keflavik into Reykjavik though where it's all natural, clean and beautiful.

Met Steve DeRosa, the school director, real quick then got pizza of all things at a restaurant on the park. The school is looking good. Some areas are still being built but it's all modern and new and the classrooms look great. Spacious.

Bought some things at the grocery store known as Acima kind of like Monoprix in France and settled into the apt.

Slept fine in the single bed. Reminds me of college. I chose the bigger bedroom. :-)

Sheets blanket and pillow and a few items in the kitchen but no furniture for the salon like couch table chairs etc.

We have a small round dining table with four metal chairs so that's good. Fridge works and the place is clean seems just painted and cleaned. It's a spacious apt with two bedrooms and real nice sized living room once we get the place furnished.

So far so good in terms of it being relatively calm and quiet not a lot of traffic on my little street.
Call to prayer: 17h00
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Morocco Day Deux
Breakfast at Cafe Le Paix w Dave. Omlette fromage cafe au lait du pain and little bowl of soup which I think might be grits or hominy? Le jus orange sans sucre. They add four cubes of sugar to your orange juice.
La=no in Arabic

Later on, I was nervous about the evening in terms of should I walk around? Where can I go for dinner? Is it ok as a woman to be walking around? How late is too late? Anyway I left the apt and got a coffee at the joint on the corner just to use the wifi. Then I departed and turned down the street and ended up at The Skipper restaurant. I guess it's a seafood place lol

The server was very nice of course and suggested la salade nicoise which ended up being huge so I have leftovers tonight. He spoke English and readily wanted to continue in English. We chatted a bit about my stay and he offered me his number if I need help with anything. Apparently Moroccans want to offer you their number and help you. It's their nature whether you're a man or woman.

Call to prayer 5h

Words today
L'Abonnement (masc) = subscription, when you want a phone "plan"

Morocco Day Trois
A lot Accomplished today!
Mostafa fixed the shower head and the stove situation.

Purchased stuff like slippers and food and staples for kitchen like butter and eggs and olive oil. Some items are totally cheap like a two liter bottle of water which was $0.35. In the USA that bottle would have been easily $2 or $3 or more?
Yet a bath towel at the store was $14. Go figure.

Made friends with a girl at Acima, Sokayda, who wants to learn English and will teach me Arabe.

Met nice ladies at Carrefour pharmacie too. Louba and Nadja.

Walked to beach and went through the parc which is awesome. Love that area right near the préfecture.

Met guy at beach who bought me mint tea and offered to give me free surfing lessons. Hmmm? He spoke English and I was able to ask him a few questions like are the seats with the parasol/umbrella free to use on the beach? Oui. I asked BC as I sat on the beach, a man approached me saying something about the parasol so maybe he detected I was a tourist and wanted money? I felt safe and fine all day but self conscious as I stick out as the only American, white woman at all. I see women with the head scarves and long robes and I see Arabe women in jeans and regular tops. But no white girls like me or British or even French.

Made dinner at home and my phone rang! It was Sokayda so we spoke in French a few mins and plan to meet on Monday.

"In a pinch" as they say...I moved the fabric shower curtain to the rod in the bedroom to cover my window for a little privacy and so I can keep the window open for air but subsequently got the floor all wet during my lukewarm trickling hot water shower. Lol. Tomorrow need shower curtain.

Words today
Ravir, je suis ravie = To delight, I am delighted

Salam alaycham = hello/greeting
Shukraan = thank you

Morocco Day Quatre
Ceremony at ALC
Very nice presentation. Met lovely people. Very gracious. All of them gave me their number and offered to help if I need anything in the country. Offered to take me traveling. Offered to host me and show me around. Very proud of their kid who speaks English. Can understand my French.

Spoke French for a long time with lots of people today young and old mixed with English. Met woman who offers French language lessons. Apparently the school offers both English and French so I'm in luck and will take lessons.

Took petit taxi to the mall where there's a big store like Wal Mart. Spent entirely too much time here but needed housewares like French press, can opener, shower curtain etc. and yoga mat which I got at Decathlon same sporting store as in Montpellier. All told $125, probably a steal compared to the USA.
​
Quick shower and need to crash as we're going early to Rabat for a training. Gotta catch train at 7h55 and am meeting Michael, new American teacher guy at about 7h20.
I have coffee here and yogurt and an egg then onto the gare. He speaks pretty good French and even Arabic and just a nice well traveled open guy.

I need to exercise!

Call to prayer 13h26
Call to prayer 20h40

Morocco Jour Cinq
Took an early morning train to Rabat. Super easy to get on ad figure out. The one way ticket was 28MAD which is $2.80. The ride was about 30 mins.

Rabat is the capital so on a Sunday morning was pretty quiet. We walked to the training center and grabbed a quick coffee beforehand.

Today I really felt like I was in Morocco despite having New York style pizza for lunch lol

Met about a dozen more fellow teachers who are all stationed around the country. We did some ice breaker games and get to know you. Met Emma from Portland, ME, Syracuse Uni grad. All of the teachers were either from the USA, Australia or New Zealand it was a long day but we covered a lot of ground about customs, safety, expectations, traveling etc. I now how an entire network of people I can connect with when traveling around the country. Emma just finished a two year Peace Corps stint.

Later a few of us traveled around Rabat with the three Moroccan buddies, native Moroccans who speak fluent English who are helping us acclimate. Rabat was amazing as we walked through the medina where the vendors are selling shoes, clothes, everything. Then we ended up at this beautiful overlook for the sunset where we had mint tea and almond pastries-quintessential Moroccan. A bunch of them decided to stay for a jazz concert and I wanted to head back so they got me to the train station and I navigated myself back to Mohammedia.

I supposed I was a little nervous but it was totally fine and I sat next to a nice man who spoke French to me the entire ride. In fact, he wanted to practice his English and all I had was my novel, Ruth Ozeki's "A Tale for the Time Being." So I opened up to a random page and he read aloud in English and then together we translated. It was so much fun and I realized how well I can translate (actually it's interpret as translate is written and interpret is spoke word).

Then I read aloud in French from my copy of Le Matin I had in my bag and he wade equally impressed with my French pronunciation. Moroccans find English kind of easy since many words have French origins. Still it's not too common to meet people on the street or in the stores who speak English. Even some folks ball at French and speak only Arabic. See pic above.

Call to prayer 19h55
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What brings me to Morocco?

9/26/2016

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What brings me to Morocco?

Since the time I was a high school student in the 1980s, I've had the dream of traveling to French speaking countries around the world, particularly in Africa: Morocco, Senegal, Côte d'Ivoire, and also to other places like Haiti, Vietnam and of course Quebec.

I love the French language and am fascinated by our ability to think, read, speak, and understand bilingually.
http://www.pinkpangea.com/2014/11/quit-day-job-finally-pursued-dream-speaking-french/>

So in 2014, I earned an ESL (teaching English as a Second Language) degree -- effectively my passport around the world. It gives me the opportunity not only to travel but also to live in a country and experience it as a local rather than only as a tourist.

When you are planted in a city for an extended stay (9 mos-1yr) and visit the same cafe, shop at the same stores and get to know the shopkeepers, you get the deeper experience.

To boot, I get paid to learn a new culture, customs and language. In fact, the ESL school here offers courses in French language.

As a side note, my advice to young people going to college is to consider complementing your studies by looking into earning an ESL degree.

I took my course through The Language House in Montpellier, France (so I actually have a TEFL degree, Teaching English as a Foreign Language). It was an intensive 4-week course, which met Mon-Fri, 9-5p with two weeks of grammar review and testing then two weeks of lesson planning and student teaching in small groups and one/one.

You are observed by your instructor and then your peers. It's intense but within one month you have completed 120 hours and are finished with certificate in hand. It's also advisable, if you can, to take a supplemental Business English course which qualifies you to teach business English to managers, CEOs, and professionals.

This is nice because under this type of work, you can command higher fees so if you gravitate toward teaching adults over children, as I do, then it can be a good career move. The course I zoom was about US $1,500 and I paid a separate housing fee of $500 to do a homestay with a French speaker for the month.

Of course I needed to cover my airfare to France and allot money for food and personal items. Doing the homestay was more affordable and gave me the opportunity to practice French while having a nice cozy home base to live and relax and study. You don't have much free time during the month while taking the TEFL course because it's quite intense with assignments, homework and studying but the payoff is great once you are done.

Read about my travels in Montpellier, France: http://www.jenniferkarchmer.com/montpellier-france.html>

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